From the second I stepped off the plane in New Orleans a few years back, I knew I would be returning. Both Mireille and I are massive live music fans, often searching for new acts or music venues in our hometown. When I walked into the French Quarter for the first time and literally heard live music bouncing off the walls, I immediately started planning a trip back, so we could experience it together.
When that plan was actualized this last May, the Big Easy revealed itself to us in far more detail than I could have asked for. With a crew of like minded individuals in tow and no official business to worry about, we were able to enjoy every aspect of the city, from the food scene to the cocktail scene, and of course, every genre of music imaginable as we hit seemingly every dive bar and lounge from Bourbon to Frenchmen. Even the street musicians busking in this town were so accomplished and talented they could probably sell out an amphitheatre given the chance.
Of course, no trip would be complete without stopping by a legendary music venue. This time it would be Preservation Hall. Admittedly I had never heard of the establishment until I saw it on Sonic Highways, the Foo Fighters miniseries in which they recorded at famous studios throughout the United States. After the docuseries explained its historical importance it seemed to pop up on every show that featured the city. Its purpose was to preserve, perpetuate and protect traditional New Orleans Jazz – and they continue that mission as a cornerstone of music and culture.
As a group, we decided the Saturday evening show would be our indoctrination to the legendary venue and its accompanying band Preservation Hall Jazz Band. Unfortunately, when we arrived we were informed that the evening's performance was cancelled. Although slightly disappointed, I knew it was a great excuse to return to the city.
Addendum: A week ago I picked up a biography of one of my all time favorite bands – The Never-Ending Present, The story of Gord Downie and The Tragically Hip. Although I am a huge fan of the band, I knew very little about their rise to Canadian fame, as they preferred to keep some anonymity. As I read the book, I was blown away by their connection to New Orleans (aside from their hit song “New Orleans is Sinking”). A renovated and repurposed mansion in the city’s French Quarter was the studio where various early Tragically Hip albums were recorded and/or mixed. It is one more musical landmark that I must pay homage to next time I’m fortunate enough to be in the Big Easy.
